Today's post is an inside view into the traditions of Christmas in northern Spain, written by my friend and fellow missionary, Lou Ann Keiser. Enjoy! – Katie
We moved to Spain many years ago and were surprised by the Christmas customs.
They weren’t at all what we were used to in the United States! For one thing, there were hardly any lights or decorations.
This has changed a little over the years, but it’s still true. Christmas in Basque Spain doesn’t look like a Stateside Christmas.
How is Christmas Celebrated in Basque, Spain?
We first lived in a high-rise apartment building. As I was cooking for Christmas, children started arriving at my door. “May we sing?” they asked. Of course, we said yes, and they began to sing a
carol we’d never heard before. The group of children was dressed in the traditional Basque country costume and one of them played a flute. The others sang somewhat off-key. Then, they put their hands out for money. Thankfully, we’d been advised to stock up on five peseta pieces! Many children came to the door and sang for money.
carol we’d never heard before. The group of children was dressed in the traditional Basque country costume and one of them played a flute. The others sang somewhat off-key. Then, they put their hands out for money. Thankfully, we’d been advised to stock up on five peseta pieces! Many children came to the door and sang for money.
Later, we moved to a small town in the country, and the children sang for oranges and raw eggs. They carried baskets to haul off their eggs and oranges. I gave them candy bars instead, and they were happy.
Basque Christmas Carolers
Manger Scenes
We noticed a lot of manger scenes on display. They might be in a store window or on the counter in a business or in people’s homes. Some are large, like a whole Basque village—with the stable and Mary and Joseph and Baby Jesus in the middle. I enjoy seeing the manger scenes. They’re beautiful! I usually put up at least two in our house. After all, Jesus’ coming as a Baby is the whole reason we celebrate Christmas!
Santa or Olentzero
The Basques have their own kind of “Santa.” His name is Olentzero. Legend has it that he was a carbon maker and that he would visit the towns and give gifts to the children.
In the little town where we live, “Olentzero” comes down the hill on Christmas Eve, with torch-carriers and women and children dressed in traditional Basque costumes. He brings with him a donkey loaded with baskets of gifts.
Basque Olenzero (The Santa of Basque Spain)
When is Christmas in Spain?
Christmas Eve (December 24th) is when most people in Spain have a huge dinner with their extended family. It is usually many hours long and is always served in courses. The best stemware and dishes grace the table, and it’s a festive time. Since most homes are small, they might put up tables in the kitchen, living room, and even bedrooms to accommodate all of the family.
These dinners start around ten o’clock in the evening and last well past midnight. Dessert consists of an assortment of turrones, which are candies similar to fudge. They come in a variety of flavors, mostly chocolate, nuts, and fruits. In many parts of Spain, you can only buy turrón around Christmastime.
Christmas Day is usually a sleep-in day, and many people go to visit family for dinner in the middle of the day or early afternoon.
The Day of the Kings
People give and receive presents on January 6th, which is the “Day of the Kings” (Wise Men). In every city, there’s a parade on the night of January 5th. We were surprised how close the parade was to the Bible! First, a young person carries a pole with a big star on it through the streets. Then come some young people in Eastern-style dress with torches in their hands. Some are shepherds.
In one parade we attended, a whole herd of sheep passes through the streets, and children wearing Basque costumes carry rabbits, baby goats, and lambs. Then, there’s a float with the stable and Mary, Joseph, and the Baby Jesus. After that, floats with people in Eastern dress toss hard candy to the children along the route.
A Basque Christmas Manger Scene float in a parade
Then, you’ll hear the crowd say, “They’re coming!” Soon, the three Wise Men pass by on horseback, dressed in beautiful shining robes and waving to the people. Spanish tradition says that the Wise Men give gifts to good little children. The children leave their shoes out on their balconies for the Wise Men to fill with gifts. On January 6th, they open their presents.
Of course, you know the Wise Men did bring gifts to the Christ Child. What were they? Gold, frankincense, and myrrh. They spoke of the Gospel: that Jesus is God, that He came to earth to die on the cross for sins, and that He would rise again, so that people who trust in Him can have eternal life. The Baby Jesus would be Prophet, Priest, and King.
Lou Ann Keiser or “Ana” as she is known in Basque, is a missionary, pastor's wife, mother and grandmother living in the lovely Basque Country in the north of Spain. She is the author of His Ways, Your Walk: Bible Applications for Women and blogs at www.intheway-lk.blogspot.com
